D – Munich | At the 16th Busche Gala, the "Oscars" of gastronomy will be awarded – and the 39th edition of the Gourmet Atlas will be presented, in which the Lake Constance region is also well represented. Besides culinary excellence, the gala focuses primarily on the vanities of the celebrities. And, at times, a man from Lake Constance – namely, master distiller Robert Gierer, who, at the invitation of the organizers, pours his liquid delicacies.
Autumn is a time of hope and anxiety for the restaurant industry. As the leaves fall, so do the judgments of the renowned gourmet guides – most notably the Michelin Guide and Gault Millau. The good spirits and, not infrequently, the financial success of ambitious restaurants and chefs depend on their stars and toques. The Aral Schlemmer-Atlas, published by Busche Verlag, has also established itself. It awards establishments with up to five crossed spoons and hosts an opulent gala each year to honor the very best in the company of hand-picked gourmets and celebrities.
The stage for this year's gala is the Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten in Munich, which is also being honored as "Hotel of the Year," and its director, Axel Ludwig, as "Hotel Manager of the Year." In the early evening, the red carpet is littered with celebrities, each of whom, naturally, professes to be a great connoisseur. For example, former soccer star Lothar Matthäus, as always, is accompanied by a young, attractive woman. This time, it's a certain Anastasia. "Enjoying life is an art I've mastered," Matthäus declares, before leaving the flashing cameras and entering the grand foyer, where liveried ladies and gentlemen are mingling with champagne and canapés. Pork belly pralines, oysters, lobster, truffles. Anyone who previously knew nothing about fine dining can learn it here and now in a crash course. The illustrious procession in the foyer, in front of the photographers' lenses, shows no sign of abating: There's Werner Mang, the "nose pope" from Lake Constance, enjoying the warm shower of flashbulbs. Gourmet food guru Gerd Käfer smiles for the cameras, and even RTL presenter Frauke Ludowig graces the occasion, basking in the reflected glory of Germany's best chefs. Trailing behind the stars and starlets are a host of socialites and impeccably groomed socialites.
Then Harald Wohlfahrt from the Traube in Tonbach, one of the greatest culinary artists of all time, steps onto the red carpet. He seems somewhat out of place in his fine suit, as the culinary world primarily knows the three-Michelin-starred chef in his chef's uniform. Then the culinary legends arrive in quick succession: Heinz Winkler, Hans Haas, Sven Elverfeld, and Tim Raue – the parade of culinary stars is only interrupted by a former footballer, Günter Netzer, accompanied by his wife. Football artistry and culinary artistry – it seems to go together very well. But the Kaiser himself attracts the most attention: Franz Beckenbauer is surrounded by a throng of admirers who pat him on the back.
While everyone else is preoccupied with Atlantic lobster and Alba truffles, Robert Gierer brings a touch of down-to-earth charm to the gathering with his brandies from Lake Constance. He provides a local counterpoint to the champagne-fueled revelry. "Experience its full aroma, imagine the fruit!" Gierer demands of none other than His Royal Highness Prince Luitpold of Bavaria. The prince buries his nose in the tasting glass and inhales a generous dose of Lake Constance before savoring the fine brandy. His royal verdict: "Excellent!" Gradually, curiosity draws even more celebrities to Gierer's stand, transforming him into a kind of Lake Constance ambassador of good taste as the evening progresses – and he is delighted with the valuable new contacts he has made.
The awards ceremony itself is a parade of Germany's 26 best chefs – at least according to the testers from the Schlemmer-Atlas (Gourmet Atlas). Presenter Frauke Ludowig introduces familiar names – but also new ones, such as Bobby Bräuer, the "Rising Star of the Year," from the Esszimmer restaurant in Munich. Günter Netzer's laudatory speech for his friend Franz Beckenbauer, who is being honored as "Gourmet of the Year," is truly delightful. "Yes, yes – you've always been good at enjoying life, while, for example, you made everyone run and work for you on the football pitch." Netzer even goes so far as to accuse his friend of bordering on laziness in his capacity for enjoyment, which Beckenbauer, of course, counters in his acceptance speech and returns to Netzer. Hugs, pats on the back – and back to the champagne glasses. And to the many food stations scattered throughout the hotel, where lobster and other delicacies never run out.
Robert Gierer from Bodolz near Lindau is also busy, convincing other restaurateurs and celebrities, such as RTL2's celebrity chef Mike Süsser, of the merits of the Lake Constance brandies. Business cards are exchanged, glasses are emptied. In one of the rooms, former football stars are trying their hand at Tipp-Kick, a kind of miniature football. The atmosphere is almost as exuberant as at the 1974 World Cup final, when Netzer and Beckenbauer became world champions on home soil. But many of the real stars of the evening, the chefs themselves, have already retired. After all, most of them have to show their guests again tomorrow what true culinary delights are all about.