Bodolz / Andy
Jürgen Volkwein holds the glass close to his nose and inhales the aroma deeply. The contents smell intensely of apricot. He swirls the glass and smells it again. Only then does he take a small sip. This is exactly how master distiller Robert Gierer had explained it earlier: "Tasting is 70 percent through the nose. Smell it several times and imagine the fruit before you drink."
Ten readers who won a prize draw in the Lindauer Zeitung newspaper came to Bodolz to taste Robert Gierer's fine brandies. The family has been distilling spirits on their farm for four generations. Gierer didn't want to limit himself to apples, pears, and plums, but expanded his offerings. His shelves now feature, among other things, a quince brandy and a vineyard peach liqueur. He uses only the finest fruit. His products have found their way into numerous Michelin-starred restaurants. He also supplies the Lufthansa First Class Lounge in Munich. And so, the readers had high expectations at the start of the evening.
The right glass is crucial for a tasting.
As they sit down at a long wooden table, ten wide-bowled glasses with narrow openings stand before each participant. The aroma develops best in these glasses, says Gierer. "Besides a good brandy, the most important thing in a tasting is the right glass," the distiller explains. He goes on to tell his guests that they should enjoy a fine brandy at room temperature. The flavor doesn't come through properly when the spirit is chilled. Then the guests are allowed to take the first glass. It contains Williams pear brandy. "Imagine biting into a juicy pear," Gierer advises. Werner Frank is enthusiastic: "I'm not usually a fan of Williams pear brandy, but this one tasted really great." Apricot, sour cherry, sloe, and raspberry follow. Gierer is particularly proud of his Elvados. This is a fruit brandy made from Elstar apples, aged in an oak barrel. The name is a combination of Elstar and Calvados (apple brandy).
Gierer explains that when it comes to spirits, one must distinguish between a brandy and a spirit. For a brandy, the fruit ferments, producing alcohol, which is then distilled. However, some fruits don't have enough fructose for this process. Therefore, Gierer macerates wild raspberries, juniper berries, or hazelnuts in alcohol so that it absorbs their aromas and can then be distilled. In these cases, the product is called a spirit.
Sparkling liqueurs where the fruit takes center stage.
For many, the highlight of the tasting is the contents of the sixth glass. "Wow!" and "amazing!" echo through the room. Some guests laugh in disbelief and shake their heads. Even before the glass has reached their noses, an intense nutty aroma hits them. "It smells like Nutella!" exclaims Gabi Vögele. Sandra Eilbrecht raves, "It's like an explosion in my nose. I could smell it for hours!"
To finish, there's an apricot liqueur and a coffee liqueur. Gierer says: "Often liqueurs are cloying and sweet. Mine have a certain effervescence, and the fruit should be the focus."
Gierer repeatedly encourages his guests to smell the glasses intensely. He says, "I want the nose to be much more involved in the tasting." Evenings at his place have even been called "nose schools," he recounts with a laugh. He also emphasizes the importance of not quickly downing a fine brandy after a meal. "You have to take your time and savor it."
After two hours, the guests are delighted. Werner Frank praises the pleasant and relaxed atmosphere. Sarah Eilbrecht says: "Drinking with your nose completely fascinated me." She wants to enjoy things much more consciously in the future.